Monoprice Select Mini Settings for Cura Continuous Extrude

I use Slic3r so i can't really translate into Cura, but main parameters are listed here.
For hobbyking petg i use temp of 220/60 on glass bed with PVAc glue (plain white glue for wood, elmer's i guess in the states, i've found local supplier where it says PVAc on the label :) ) solution in hot water (pretty thick, something like 1 to 5 ration glue/water) and go very slow, max speed 30mm/sec, 1st layer 50% of that, 0.175 layer height, 1st layer 150% height, also measure filament width and extrusion rate and lower it by 0.01 (for PVA i have extrusion multiplier 1.03, but for PETG 1.02 works better). Bed itself should also sit a bit lower than with PLA. Printing supports is still a problem since they get printed every second layer or so, so it's better to put raft under them (Cura might do this differently). But the main part was using glue.

i got it working, but i am having a warping issue. seems that the top layers pull up the base.

using cura 15.04.2

layer height: 0.175
shell thickness: 0.8
bottom top: 0.875
fill density: 100%
print speed: 25
printing temp: 235C
hotbed temp: 60C

only rafts

diam: 1.71
flow: 100
noz size 0.4
speed: 40
distance: 4.5

initial layer thickness:0.3
initial layer line with: 100
cut off object at bottom 0.0
dual extrusion overlap: 0.15

travel speed: 75
bottom layer speed:20
infil speed ~inner shell speed: all 0

minimal layer time 5 and fan enabled

When the print is warping up off the base during print, that is normally a good sign that you need more heat on the bed. I know 60 is the max bed temp on the mini, but on my other 3d printers I have to use closer to 80 for PETG prints. You did not say what your bed surface is, but I assume you are using blue printers tape? Try spraying it with hair spray or rub glue stick on it. (ABS slurry is another option but harder to work with) If you have the version 2 Mini it might still have black buildtak on the bed, and that normally works well, but to test you can always cover it with blue tape and try the methods listed above too. (remember to relevel the bed if you are adding a covering)

got it to go. forsaken thing. used my pla settings with a temperature boost to 245, set the bed at 60. it started to go haywire, and i manually reduced the speed to 70% with the knob, and it printed fine. was losing my mind trying to get it to go.

PLA works like a charm. using the same settings with a higher extruder temp.

I set the bed to 60*C

The first lawyers do not stick and they either fall off, or goo up around the nozzle.

bed is as level as it is going to ged. might have to set the head higher and print with a thicker layer for the base

First layers I use 50C bed temp. A glass bed is really nice , and worth the trouble to set up IMO. If you're using the stock bed, you can always clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol first. Alternatively aquanet hair spray or glue stick on top of blue tape would help. Before I had a glass bed I never had any issues with 3M blue painters tape.

1.) Ensure your level
2.) Check your layer lines, are you level but too far away from the bed?
3.) Consider setting the "First Layer Height" to 100% or even 80%. Some slicers default to 150%.

GLHF!

Had the same problem. For Cura 2.7, I found this guy's settings (below) to be the best for me after months of hit and miss. Now I have great prints every time.

http://www.thetylergibson.com/monoprice-select-mini-part-3-tuning-and-slicing/

As others have posted, leveling the bed correctly is crucial for a good first layer. I found that a long handled 2mm key wrench really helps with getting the bed level. Much quicker then using the little wrench that came with the printer.
Good luck.

how are your prints when you do PLA? does it stick well?
have you calibrated the printer? although it comes calibrated from the factory, the vibrations and bumping from being thrown around during delivery is enough to loosen the calibrations. also check for bowing on the print bed (it helps to calibrate when the print bed is heated); if it's bowed, you may be calibrating the corners right, but then the center might be too far.
what are the print temperatures you have tried?
do you pre-feed filament in your startup routine?

my v2 works perfectly well out of the box (with calibration). i use a heated bed at 50C and temp of 235-245 (they all work the same for me) 100% flow, print speed 40mm/s with initial layer speed of 20mm/s

The trick I found on PETG was to heat the bed a lot and print slower compared to PLA. I change the print speed to about 35mm/s. (first layer even slower) The Monoprice Mini print bed only goes to 60c on mine, so I used 60. (on my CR-10 I use around 80c for PETG to stick well) If you use blue tape, I would also spray the tape right before printing with hair spray to give it a little tackyness. And of course the hotend temp needs to be hotter for PETG than PLA as well. 235 or higher.

And of course a critical part of first layer adhesion is always a good level bed with a proper distance from the nozzle. Take your time to get that part perfect. There are lots of videos that show how to do this.

What settings have you tried?

The bed goes only to 60 C when adjusted from the knob, but can go higher with g-code. I just got a roll of eSUN black petg, got some warping with 230/60 (printing on kapton, no hairspray or glue) but trying 230/80 today.

For petg I've been using tape, and more than cura settings, I give it an extra .05mm between the nozzle and bed. So I often do a first layer of .15mm with petg, I leave that initial layer at .15 in cura, but level the bed with a .2mm feeler gauge. Also, if there isn't a large flat surface on the print, a raft helps. Or, if there is, but you find it lifting on a side / corner, a brim can help.

thorpeditake.blogspot.com

Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/monoprice-select-mini-owners/forums/general/topic:21587

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